On the 12th of February, we embarked on a nine day journey from Hobart following the Australian Wooden Boat Festival with a mission to return the Tall Ship Enterprize back to it’s home berth in Docklands, Melbourne. Departing south in the company of 11 crew and 5 passengers of all varying ages, character and walks of life, we took to sail and motor alongside other tall ships such as the One And All, The Endeavour, The James Craig and Soren Larson who’s crews were also tasked with crossing the deep blue and returning to their respective homes.
Our Journey on the Enterprize first took us to Port Arthur wherein we were required to lay anchor and wait out the northerly winds until there was a change in direction. Sharing the bay with One And All who had already anchored before us, a day was spent ashore via their tender (dingy) as we toured the penal prison colony and observed the Isle of the Dead, rumoured to be the second most haunted location in Australia.
Waking to bushfire smoke the following morning that had rolled in from the west coast of Tasmania, our vision was heavily obscured to the point that other tall ships occupying the bay space were barely visible. It wasn’t until our forecasted wind direction change that the southwesterlies came through and cleared the smoke, and the way, indicating to us that the winds were fair and at our backs and it was time to leave.
We ventured up the East Coast of Tasmania, with heavy winds and three-meter swells batting against our timber vessel. Never have I experienced rolling and pitching like this, and if it wasn’t for semi regular Kwells tablets, then I would have lost my guts over the side many times over. One would only dream of the fantasy of sailing at large in stormy conditions, but this was most certainly a reality, only not too severe. That wasn’t until we were required to seek shelter at Wineglass Bay as conditions did become too dangerous and uncomfortable in the midst of night.
Anchoring at Wineglass Bay, we engaged in crew shenanigans and took the opportunity to swim off the side of the Enterprize during a relaxing and stress-free morning. By noon, it was time to depart once more into the deep blue. This time, conditions were much easier throughout the day and we were blessed with sunshine all the more. By night, the waters were rough and the gales were strong, akin to the previous night. We had one last anchorage opportunity along the coastline, and this time at Binalong Bay with the Tall Ship ‘One And All’ to greet us there.
Enjoying the morning in sheltered waters, I signed off my last requirement for the ‘Working Aloft’ endorsement, which demonstrates to the masters that I have ample skill and strength to climb the shrouds and work among the top yard and top sails. A necessary prerequisite to achieve a rated crew certificate.
We left Binalong Bay and made for Banks Strait, the gap of ocean that bridges the northeastern coast of Tasmania and the nearby islands. I had somewhat expected to sail northwest along the western coastlines of these isles, but our window for entering the Port Phillip Heads was closing and we were running out of time. The masters decreed that we sail northwest, straight into the heart of Bass Strait and sail three days straight without anchorage to meet the slackwater.
With southwesterly winds still at our backs, we sailed into the open. Everywhere around us there was not a single spec of landmass, nor island, nor ship, nor object dotting the horizon. Just the Enterprize, and our hearty, gutsy crew making our way across the dip. We encountered conditions both great and challenging. Dolphins, bioluminescence and an unmarred night’s sky at times revealing shooting stars and numerous satellites. It was a fascinating insight into how mariners lived their lives 200 years ago, and I was astonished at the workmanship and resilience this old vessel had in managing to carry us from one landmass to another, and through rough conditions all the same. As we approached the Port Phillip heads, we were woken at an ungodly hour to don our life jackets and lanyards, batten down the hatches, stow away our goods and lash down any loose items. The heads are said to be the most brutal and unforgiving sea state in southernmost Victoria, with swells exceeding 5 meters and tipping so severe that to be below deck is simply deemed unsafe.
Fortunately, the ship masters and Captain Eden had managed to thread us through the needle with nary a challenge, as they had picked the opportune moment to approach the heads and ensure our safety, and the safety of the Enterprize. I could only imagine the daring ventures of container shipping crew and passenger vessels who make this their job and lifestyle, and my hat goes off to them for leading such a life.
Upon returning to Port Phillip Bay, we had two more anchorages at Portarlington and Mornington, and finally returned to our home berth at Victoria Harbor where the crew took a moment to reflect on the full journey and congratulate each other and the passengers for enduring such hardship over the course of the nine days. I feel highly accomplished for embarking on this journey and having been deemed a valuable member of the crew, who has done extraordinarily well for their very first voyage. I have grown very familiar with the ship now, and have learned a lot about helming, sail handling, weather, anchoring and maritime law/conduct. Day sails on the Enterprize will feel like pleasure cruises from here on out, and it won’t be long before I consider sailing on larger ships for longer and more adventurous expeditions in the near and far future.